Hyaluronic acid: everything you need to know

Hyaluronic acid is a star active ingredient in cosmetics and aesthetic medicine. It plays a central role in BIODERMA’s Hyalu⁺ serum formula. Naturally present in the human body, Hyaluronic acid plays a key role in skin’s youthfulness and hydration, thanks to its amazing ability to retain water in skin. Beyond its well known anti-age action when used in injection format, Hyaluronic acid can be used in many different ways. How can you take advantage of it for your skin? Follow our guide!

Where does Hyaluronic acid come from?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) was discovered in 1934 but has only been used in cosmetic and aesthetic products since the 1990s. It is naturally present in our body, and in particular in our skin, where the majority – 50 to 70% – of it is located. Most Hyaluronic acid is stored deep in the dermis. Skin cells constantly produce Hyaluronic acid, although it deteriorates very quickly – in less than a day! This very short life cycle is why the need for it is so high.

Hyaluronic acid serves as skin’s main water resource. It helps to preserve skin’s basic structures and is among the best treatments for dehydration and loss of firmness. In fact, Hyaluronic acid rapidly became immensely popular because it fulfills a variety of roles in keeping skin hydrated, plumped, smooth and soft.

Hyaluronic acid throughout life

Hyaluronic acid is fragile, and unstable over time. Our body’s own production progressively drops, starting as early as 20 years old. The deficit becomes even greater if there has been excessive exposure to external environmental stressors (UV rays, pollution, different treatments…). When Hyaluronic acid is poor in quality, or not enough is produced, the first signs of ageing appear: fine lines from dehydration, followed by wrinkles and a loss of firmness.

What does Hyaluronic acid do for your skin ?

Hyaluronic acid has multiple benefits for skin: it contributes in particular to keeping skin plumped and deeply hydrated, so that it stays smooth and firm.

Like a sponge that holds 1,000 times its weight in water!

Hyaluronic acid plays an essential role in regulating skin’s hydration. It holds water and reduces water loss.

A natural filler that replumps skin

Acting like cement, Hyaluronic acid fills in the empty spaces between tissues. It naturally fills out volumes, and therefore reduces the appearance of wrinkles. This is the main reason it’s used in aesthetic medicine. Thanks to HA, skin is smooth and soft. Intensely hydrated, it is supple and bursts with health.

Hyaluronic acid: true or false?

Hyaluronic acid is also appreciated because it’s well tolerated

True: Bad reactions are extremely rare. Using Hyaluronic acid is therefore perfectly safe and the risk of intolerance is very low.

Hyaluronic acid can be taken as a dietary supplement

True but… There is no real proof today that this active ingredient is readily bioavailable and can reach the skin.

Hyaluronic acid can be used along with other active ingredients

True: Hyaluronic acid provides complementary hydration if you use fruit acids (BHA and AHA), retinol or anti-acne treatments that dry skin out. Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C or collagen are also combinations that are frequently recommended.

Hyaluronic acid is used only for skin

False: It has calming and anti-inflammatory properties that are used in a variety of medical applications: sore throat, eye surgery and hydration, cartilage protection…

Hyaluronic acid was first used in injection form before becoming an iconic active anti-age ingredient in dermo-cosmetics. In serum format, it should be used as much as possible to reduce the signs of aging that accompany the unavoidable slowing of its natural cycle. And yet it’s not that easy to benefit from the acid’s incredible replumping properties. Hyaluronic acid has different effects depending on the size of its molecules. It’s necessary to make the distinction between high, mid and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

In its original form, Hyaluronic acid is a large molecule with a high molecular weight. Due to its size, it can’t go deeply into skin and instead intensely hydrates the epidermal surface by creating a film that holds water inside.

Action: This type of Hyaluronic acid hydrates and smooths skin on the surface. It also reinforces the skin’s barrier role against outside irritation.

The molecules can be divided to obtain low weight Hyaluronic acid, able to slip down into the dermis. This Hyaluronic acid can absorb water and restart the natural production of collagen in dermal fibroblasts.

Action: This type of Hyaluronic acid visibly affects wrinkles and skin elasticity, making it supple and radiant.

The best solution, obviously, is to combine the two types of Hyaluronic acid to benefit from the full potential of this extraordinary active ingredient. At Bioderma, we decided to include both in our Hydrabio Hyalu⁺ serum formula. But this isn’t the serum’s only advantage. It also contains an innovative ingredient to lastingly hydrate skin.